Domaine Frédéric Magnien Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru, Les Borniques 2016 (Organic and Biodynamic)
Frederic Magnien is a fifth-generation winemaker from Morey-Saint-Denis, and Burgundy is the family's lifeblood. Learning the craft first from his father, Michel Magnien (of Domaine Michel Magnien), Fred also traveled to California and Australia to hone his talents before returning home and starting his own negociant domain in his native village. There's no question that Magnien knows every nook and cranny of Burgundy by heart.
As a négociant, Magnien differentiates himself in that he works closely with his partner vine growers throughout the year, selecting only older-vine parcels that are cared for to his exacting standards. His own teams pick the grapes at harvest, a further qualitative step. (Most négociants buy juice, not grapes.) Magnien differentiates himself from other négociants in that he works closely with partner growers throughout the growing season, selecting only older-vine parcels cared for to his exacting standards. His own teams pick the grapes at harvest, a further qualitative step.
Most of the vineyards Magnien purchases grapes from are either certified organic or in the process of conversion. In the cellar, grapes are destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts. As of the 2015 vintage, Magnien now ages his wines in older François Frères oak barrels and terracotta “jarres,” as the next logical step in his full conversion to organic/biodynamic winemaking. This decision, he says, allows his wines to reflect more purity of fruit and terroir character.
‘Borniques’ borders grand cru Musigny and sits just above premier cru ‘Amoureuses.’ East-facing; soils are nearly identical to grand cru Musigny, with limestone and veins of white and yellow clay. Concentrated, with layers and layers of flavor; always a favorite for the cellar.
East-facing; soils are nearly identical to grand cru Musigny, with limestone and veins of white and yellow clay.
Very low yields in 2016, vine age is 40-60 years. Grapes are hand harvested, with 47% whole cluster fermentation in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks on indigenous yeasts. Aged 50% in clay jars and 50% in older French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Drinking window 2023 on.
96 points, Jamie Goode: Small plot by Musigny Grand Cru. Organic, aged in terracotta. Such purity, delicacy and finesse here with green-tinged red cherry fruit. There’s focus and vitality here with good structure, and there’s a floral quality to the fruit, as well as good structure. Such a beautiful wine, with astonishing elegance and texture.
91-93 points Vinous (from 60-year-old vines; 47% vendange entier): Very dark aromas of medicinal black cherry lifted by violet. Supple and fine-grained but less fruity and creamy than the Charmes, conveying a mineral tightness in the early going. Best today on the firmly tannic, perfumed, violety finish. Magnien noted that Chambolle-Musigny in general really benefits from aging in jarres, as its wines are typically characterized by finesse and refinement. The neutral taste of the jarres, says, respects the refinement of the different climats of Chambolle better than oak barrels do, adding that some Chambolles are "coated or dominated by a wood taste for years, or for life."