REMOISSENET PÉRE ET FILS Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Damodes’ 2016 (Organic and Biodynamic)
Remoissenet Père et Fils is a reference point for refined Burgundy wines. This ancient estate, connected by mortar and stone to the medieval walls of Beaune, is for serious collectors linked by vine and bottle to Burgundy’s hallowed past and its exciting future.
Wandering through the 150-year-old estate’s hand-carved cellars is to travel back in time, each cool bottle telling a story of vintages past, wars won, anniversaries celebrated. Yet among these bottled memories are barrels of stories to come: older vines tended according to biodynamic methods, unique terroirs selected with the utmost care and in micro-quantities. In 2005, Remoissenet started the next chapter in its generations-long history.
With new owners and renewed leadership under Pierre-Antoine Rovani (formerly of the Wine Advocate) and Bernard Repolt (Maison Louis Jadot), the estate is bringing more vineyards under its own roof and importantly, raising the qualitative bar for itself and its vine-growing partners across the board. The proof, of course, is in each bottle. Whether “basic” Bourgogne to hallowed grand cru, Remoissenet wines show a suave elegance in perfume and texture, with a finish made of silk.
The team at Remoissenet wears two hats: one, as a high-quality, small-batch négociant, cultivating close relationships with vine-growers up and down the Côte; and two, as a vine-growing estate, with select vineyards, the majority of which are located in Beaune and Gevrey-Chambertin, cared for according to biodynamic principles.
The estate works with its vine-growers in a fashion not usual for France: grapes are purchased not by quantity but by quality, with bonuses offered if quality is exceptional. This ensures that Remoissenet gets the finest grapes, regardless of vintage. At harvest, three sorting tables are used (not to mention hundreds of hands) to ensure only the most pristine fruit makes its way into the cellar.
Winemaking is philosophically non-interventionist, with winemaker Claudie Jobard preferring to “let the grapes speak” as clearly as possible. Reds are fermented on indigenous yeasts in open-top fermenters and aged in larger French oak barrels (350L). The percentage of new French oak barrels depends on the cru and the vintage, with up to 30 percent new wood for villages wines; from 30 to 70 percent for premier crus; and from 70 to 100 percent for grand cru wines. Reds are neither fined nor filtered.
Whites are pressed gently in a pneumatic press and fermented on indigenous yeasts. Barrel aging, depending on vintage and cru, ranges from 30 percent new wood for villages wines to 100 percent for grand cru wines.
Selected (purchased) fruit from the lower portion of ‘Damodes,’ (around 900 feet), an east-facing plot that sits close to the border with Vosne-Romanée. Soils are pure limestone, with thin topsoils. Although Remoissenet doesn’t own the vines, it does farm the plot biodynamically.
30-40 year old vines, hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeast in open-top vessels. Aged in 30% new 350-liter French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Aromas of black plums, purple fruit, violets, light licorice. Suave, structured, and layered, with fine-grained tannins.