Farmstead Case Club – June Allocation

Vigno white 2019 FL 300x218
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Unico
 Zelo jade jasper fiano (Vegan,  Natural practices

Unico Zelo RED BLEND Fresh AF (Vegan, Natural practices)
freire lobo Vigno Dao Branco (Organic, Biodynamic)
Secateurs Chenin (organic, Biodynamic )
Penya Rosé (Sustainable)
Coursac Rouge Les Garriguettes (organic, biodynamic)
freire lobo Vigno Dao Tinto (Organic, biodynamic)
Allegria Tribu d’a (organic)
Chateau Pegau Côtes-du-rhône Blanc Lone (organic)
commanderie de bargemone rosé (organic)
JM Arnoux Vieux Clocher Vacqueyras (organic)
Veraton Garnacha (Sustainable)

 

Unico Zelo jade jasper fiano and Red Blend  (Vegan,  Natural practice\


Inspired by an intense passion for the land, Helmed by Brenden and Laura Carter, their wines are crafted to showcase unique sites and soils that Australia has to offer, in styles that are typified by the life and culture of this sunburnt country. Using minimal interventions techniques such as zero irrigation, 100% wild ferment and no additions of enzymes, nutrients or sugars, they create organic, vegan, earth friendly wines that respect the environment and communities around them.

In  Brendan and Laura’s words, their aim is to create “Italian-inspired, textural and site-expressive wines” and “Australian examples of Mediterranean varieties in an approachable and jovial fashion.”  Since bursting onto the scene in 2014 with their eye-catching, outrageously good value alternative vino, the Carters have spread their wings and their range.  They now make a large suite of wines, including single vineyard examples of Fiano, Nero d’Avola and Nebbiolo.  They are one of the most dynamic winemaking duos in the Adelaide Hills.

Jade Jasper Fiano  from the winery: “The Alpha & Omega of Unico Zelo. When discovering the ability of Fiano’s incredible to be dry grown in the Riverland, a bonafide desert, it set us on the path that we were set to follow. It also certainly helps that the wine produced from it is nothing short of a delight. Elegant whiffs of jasmine and white peach blossoms, racy and crackling acidity with distinct Fiano texture. One of those white wines that can suit almost any situation calling for a good glass – it’s destined for the lunch table. A Sunshine Slurper.”

Fresh AF: From the winery: “2020 Nero d’Avola & Zibibbo – Barmera, Riverland, South Australia.If anywhere in the world could make the freshest, zippiest style of Red – you’d expect it to be in the middle of the desert. Hailing from some of the most ancient soils on earth – The Riverland, is a complete underdog region that epitomises what it is to craft fine wine on the edge. Rich red earth, sandy soils covering limestone. Challenging, avant-garde – and one of the most exciting wines we’ve crafted to date. We’re intensely passionate about Nero d’Avola and it’s clear potential in the warm, sun-drenched spots of Australia. The insane water-efficiency of this variety coupled with no additions in the vineyard or winery (save for a small component of SO2 at bottling) displays the potential for this variety to craft succulent, juicy, aromatic and supremely refreshing wine. A touch of ancient vine Zibibbo lifts the aroma into supreme smashability.”

 

 

Vigno white 2019 FL 300x218

 

Vigno Dao Branco (Organic)

Elisa Freire Lobo began her winemaking career in 1996, working and studying in the Bairrada region at Caves São João and the following year in the Douro with Anselmo Mendes. Being that she grew up in the Dão region, the oldest non-liqueur DOC in Portugal, she decided to return to her roots where she quickly became the very first woman winemaker in the region. In the ensuing years, she went on to work with many of the most respected producers of the region, including Casimiro Gomes, Carlos Rodrigues, Carlos Lucas, Alvaro Castro and the late Magalhães Coelho.

Elisa’s family has been growing grapes in the Dão for decades, so the next logical step would be to take over the family vineyards, which she did in 2010. Immediately, she began the conversion to organic farming, in order to respect the soil, plants and biodiversity of the 35 acres  that she began farming. Between November and February, the vineyards are grazed by Bordaleiras sheep, which are typical of the mountainous Serra da Estrela where these vineyards lie at an elevation between 1500 and 2500 feet above sea level.

The sheep help control grass growth during wet months as well as adding essential natural fertilizer to the vineyards. Grasses and legumes are planted and encouraged the rest of the year as cover crops that improve the soil structure, increase fertility and help better manage the nutrients and limited water available in this poor, granitic soil. The cover crops stimulate biodiversity in the soil and vineyards, an essential part of long-term vineyard management. Only traditional Portuguese varietals are planted.

Reds include Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Alvarelhão, Baga, Bastardo, Tinto Cão, Camarate and Rufete. Whites include Encruzado, Cerceal, Bical, Fernão Pires, Malvasia and Barcelo. These are all harvested manually and some of their vineyards include ancient field blends, planted to virtually all of the above named varietals. The traditional methods of the vineyards flow directly into the winery where all fermentations are spontaneous using only indigenous yeasts.

50% Encruzado, 35% Bical, and 15% Cerceal.  Encruzado has got to be my favorite Portuguese white grape these days.  It’s got great structure and mouthwatering acidity for extended ageability, but fleet of foot, bursting with citrus and stone fruit flavors.   Lightly creamy, fun and refreshing, with a backbone of lemon zest, pine needle, green apple, and tangy minerality.  Wet slate, pomelo, pear – goes with any type of seafood.

 

secateurs
Secateurs Chenin (organic, natural)

South Africa knows a thing or two about dry Chenin Blanc, also known locally as Steen. The Badenhurst “Secateurs” is a beauty, with notes of stone fruits, minerality, and un petit peu of that dry Chenin, Bit-o-Honey goodness. A.A. Badenhorst Family wines is run by a couple of hippies, cousins, to be exact, who farm biodynamically and make wine naturally using old-school, traditional, no-frills equipment. Adi Badenhorst is quite a character. In addition to being a hot-stuff winemaker, he is also a parrot farmer, an LP collector, and a tea connoisseur.

The 2019 Secateurs, Badenhorst’s super-successful entry-level label, comes from 26 Swartland vineyards and is matured in a combination of concrete and foudres. The nose grabs you by the olfactory senses with pineapple, saffron and tangerine aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, nice focus and good weight on the simple but crisp lime and pineapple finish. Delicious and a great value to boot.

 

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Penya Rosé (Sustainable)

Cases de Pene is a tiny village in the Roussillon region of Southern France, just 30 miles north of Spain. Ceded to France in the mid 17th century, the area is still known as “French Catalonia”. We celebrate this heritage with the Catalan spelling of the ancient Château and village Cooperative: “Penya”.

90% Grenache, 10% Syrah.  Refreshing notes of Ranier cherries, garrigue, and hints of red raspberry and melon. Rich, full-bodied, yet bright on the palate. SERVE WITH Great as an aperitif or an accompaniment to hearty salads, fish and shellfish, charcuterie, frittata, and more.

 

coursac

Coursac Rouge Les Garriguettes (organic and biodynamic)

The Domaine de Coursac is located in the south of France, in the heart of the AOC Languedoc.The calcareous, gritty soil and an exceptionally sunny climate make the estate a privileged terroir, from which high-quality, fruity and spicy wines are produced.

Les Garriguettes- named for an exclusive wild strawberry grown in the Languedoc region and making up the primary aroma, elevated with the traditional “garrigue” notes of rosemary and thyme. The nose speaks of blackberries, macerated cherries and notes of coffee and chocolate. Fermented in egg-shaped cement tanks with a soft mouthfeel the wine is finished with a crispness. Taking its pointers from Chateauneuf-du-Pape winemakers and updating a classic with cement aging, this wine pairs perfectly with Mediterranean dishes, red meats, lamb, game birds, and tapenades.

50% Grenache Noir 30% Syrah 20% Cinsault

 

Vigno red 2016 FL

freire lobo Vigno Dao Tinto (Organic, Biodynamic)

Elisa Freire Lobo began her winemaking career in 1996, working and studying in the Bairrada region at Caves São João and the following year in the Douro with Anselmo Mendes. Being that she grew up in the Dão region, the oldest non-liqueur DOC in Portugal, she decided to return to her roots where she quickly became the very first woman winemaker in the region. In the ensuing years, she went on to work with many of the most respected producers of the region, including Casimiro Gomes, Carlos Rodrigues, Carlos Lucas, Alvaro Castro and the late Magalhães Coelho.

Elisa’s family has been growing grapes in the Dão for decades, so the next logical step would be to take over the family vineyards, which she did in 2010. Immediately, she began the conversion to organic farming, in order to respect the soil, plants and biodiversity of the 35 acres  that she began farming. Between November and February, the vineyards are grazed by Bordaleiras sheep, which are typical of the mountainous Serra da Estrela where these vineyards lie at an elevation between 1500 and 2500 feet above sea level.

The sheep help control grass growth during wet months as well as adding essential natural fertilizer to the vineyards. Grasses and legumes are planted and encouraged the rest of the year as cover crops that improve the soil structure, increase fertility and help better manage the nutrients and limited water available in this poor, granitic soil. The cover crops stimulate biodiversity in the soil and vineyards, an essential part of long-term vineyard management. Only traditional Portuguese varietals are planted.

Reds include Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Alvarelhão, Baga, Bastardo, Tinto Cão, Camarate and Rufete. Whites include Encruzado, Cerceal, Bical, Fernão Pires, Malvasia and Barcelo. These are all harvested manually and some of their vineyards include ancient field blends, planted to virtually all of the above named varietals. The traditional methods of the vineyards flow directly into the winery where all fermentations are spontaneous using only indigenous yeasts.

90 points, Wine Enthusiast:  Fermented in open top tanks with foot treading, the wine is dense and concentrated. It has a plummy character that gives an open texture and richness. Acidity and tannins at the end are now balanced and the wine is ready to drink.

40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Jaen (Mencia), and 30% Alfrocheiro.

 

TA rougeAllegria Tribu d’a (organic, natural)

Ghislain and Delphine d’Aboville found paradise on the southern slope of Les Baumes, an extinct volcano overlooking the Haut Languedoc town of Pézenas. This windy site called out to them as ideally suited to the production of interesting wines and more importantly as a rural location perfect for raising their tight-knit family of seven. The couple partnered with friend and mentor Roberto de la Mota (of Cheval des Andes and Mendel fame) when purchasing the property, and Roberto continues to lend his wisdom with each vintage.

This is one of only three locations in France with a high proportion of basalt soil, the other two being the Grand Cru of Rangen in Alsace and Clermont Ferrand in Auvergne. The second primary component of the soil here is quartz river rock, a soil type made famous in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The quartz here comes from the same source as that in Chateauneuf, but is jagged rather than rounded due to it not having traveled as far. One will find that the quartz here is also present much deeper, continuing underground for hundreds of feet and thus lending a searing minerality to wines grown here.

In total the property is comprised of 23 acres and divided into four vineyard blocks. Each vineyard block is used for one specific wine the family produces. All vines are certified organic and this was the region’s first winery principled on ecological design and process. SO2 additions are extremely limited (under 20 mg/L).

Grapes are fermented in unlined concrete vessels that were custom designed to accommodate manual pigeage, which still eight years in is a favorite after-school activity for all of their kids (they strap the kids into climbing harnesses that are roped to a bar overhead and let them go wild).

Sourced from low yielding 40 year old vines that sit on the highest elevation parcel of the property. A standout for those looking for a garrigue-driven Syrah/Mourvedre blend that shows way more focus, minerality, and tension than similar compositions grown in warmer, less rocky sites like the Southern Rhone.

“Tribu d’A” is short for “Tribe of d’Aboville” and the family’s nickname amongst friends, family, and neighbors.

80% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre Origin: France | Appellation: AOC Coteaux du Languedoc Pézenas Elaboration:Organic viticulture. 20% of the cuvee is matured in a combination of first, second, and third use Taransaud barrels, the remainder in neutral vessels. Winemaker: Ghislain d’Aboville and Roberto de la Mota 

“Dark ruby red colour. Youthful nose showing some meaty, peppery and dark fruity hints. The palate offers sweet fruit, a fine spiciness, notes of crushed blackberry, pepper, tobacco and a long spicy finish, attractive with good drinkability.” – Andreas Larsson, Master Sommelier.

 

 

 

 lone

Chateau Pegau Côtes-du-rhône Blanc Lone (organic)

In 2012, Châteauneuf-du-Pape icons Paul and Laurence Féraud purchased a 100+ acre estate in Sorgues, and renamed it Château Pégau. It is an exceptional terroir situated less than 4 miles southeast of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Loaded with classic Côtes du Rhône fruit and spice, the wines retain the hallmark stamp and identity of Pégau.

It consists of 148 acres and a large rundown Chateau of 10,000 square feet. The vineyards include 62 acres of Cotes du Rhone Villages and 12 acres of Cotes du Rhone, with the balance Vin de Table. Laurence bought it and rechristened it Château Pégau. For the first vintage, she and Paul learning their way, they declassified most of the Villages to Cotes du Rhone. The red Côtes du Rhône carries the name Château Pégau Cuvée Maclura. The Cotes du Rhone Villages (15% of the production) is Chateau Pégau Cuvée Setier. These are complemented by a white Cotes du Rhone, Château Pégau Cuvée Lône. The wines are emphatically not Chateauneuf-du-Pape, nor are they priced that way. However yields have been kept to the absurdly low limits permitted in Chateauneuf, and the wines have all of the density of that great Appellation.

40% Clairette, 30% Bourboulenc, 20% Grenache Blanc, 10% Ugni Blanc

Cuvée Lône offers fresh melon, pear, and jasmine on the deeply scented nose. Fleshy and broad but lively as well, offering juicy honeydew and orchard fruit flavors given spine by a zesty mineral quality. Shows very good intensity and power on the finish, which hangs on with tenacity and suave floral notes.

 

 

Commanderie de Bargemone Côteaux d’Aix en Provence

Bargemone is among the foremost estates of the Coteaux d’Aix, a small fine-wine district in the larger appellation of Provence.  With more than 160 acres under vines, 2/3 of the production is dedicated to the dry rosé for which Provence is famous.  

Founded by Templar knights in the 13th century, the property was named “Bargemone” after the wealthy Provençal family that owned it for 200 years. It passed from their hands in the 1800’s, with the vineyards finally succumbing to phylloxera, temporarily ending, a proud 800-year tradition of winemaking.  In 1973, French industrialist Jean-Pierre Rozan purchased the property, restored the Commanderie, and replanted the vineyards. Production was up to 50,000 cases/year when Jean-Pierre passed away in 2006, and a controlling interest in the vineyards and winery was sold to current owners Christian and Marina Garin (both from local Provençal families).  

Offering classic aromas of wild strawberries and red currants, with a light, floral character, and a crisp, bone-dry palate, this is a rosé of reference, to be enjoyed year-round on its own or with a wide range of lighter fare and Provence-inspired cuisine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault from 25+ year-old vines. Stainless steel vinification. Two days settling at cool temperatures followed by a cool, ten-day fermentation. No malolactic fermentation.

40% Grenache, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, 5% Rolle.

 Arnoux et Fils Vacqueyras Vieux Clocher

JM Arnoux Vieux Clocher Vacqueyras (organic)

Marc and Jean-Francois Arnoux are the newest generation at this traditional Domaine that sits next door to the old Vacqueyras church.

The family’s history in Vacqueyras dates back to 1731, and vineyard holdings are now 100 acres in total, with additional volume supplemented with growing partners who have supplied the family for decades.  The family property extends over the plateau of the Garrigues in the west of the appellation, extending to Chateauneuf du Pape. Essentially constituted by clay-red limestone soils with river rocks (galets). Its great particularity lies in its galets, which release the heat stored during the day, thus allowing the grapes to ripen optimally. These soils are favorable to low yields of grapes with a high concentration of tannins and aromas.

Deep purple color with mauve highlights and its powerful fruity fragrances sprinkled with spice. All the intensity of the nose may be found in mouth, on a background structured by healthy tannins full of masculinity and packed in a full body. The finish is long and opens some late pepper touches that define its specificity.

90 points Vinous:  Deep ruby. Powerful dark berry, licorice, and cola aromas unfold slowly with air, taking on hints of cracked pepper and herbs. Chewy and tightly focused, offering bitter cherry and blackberry flavors and a touch of earthiness. Building tannins add grip to the nicely persistent finish, which echoes the licorice and cherry notes. All foudres.

70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre

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ALTO MONCAYO VERATON GARNACHA (Sustainable)

What do Cannonau, Garnacha, Aragones, and Bois Jaune have in common? They are all regional terms for one of the world’s most beloved and terroir-expressive grapes: Grenache. 

The Spanish winery Alto Moncayo was created in 2002 with the goal of becoming the archetype for high-quality wines made from the Garnacha grape. Located in the heart of the Campo de Borja DO, they source grapes from 92 hectares (227 acres) of high elevation native mountain strains of Garnacha. These vines were planted decades ago on the Moncayo foothills. El Moncayo peak, the winery’s namesake, is the highest in the Iberian Mountain range. Here, the slate and clay soils seriously lack nutrients. This may not sound like a recipe for great grape growing, but it is the ideal environment for a high-quality wine: roots grow deep, vines work hard, and plants produce less fruit. However, what fruit is produced is jam-packed with tons of flavor, complexity, and balance. 

Traveling Aussie winemaker Chris Ringwald is the man behind the three Moncayo offerings: Aquilon, Alto Moncayo, and Veraton. All of their bottlings showcase distinct celebrations of the Garnacha grape. Our feature this month, the Veraton, is their value offering and is a great introduction to this acclaimed producer. 

Garnacha for this bottling comes from 30-50-year-old vines. Perfect clusters are hand-harvested and carried in small crates to prevent crushing and premature fermentation. The grapes are again sorted on triage tables. Fermentation takes place with neutral yeast and the wine matures in 80% new and 20% second use French and American barrels for 16 months, imparting great amounts of oak flavor. This full-bodied wine packs a punch, showcasing big, assertive tannins. Look for notes of smoke, coconut, cinnamon, dried blueberries, and mocha on the extremely long finish.

92 points, Vinous:  Inky ruby. A deeply perfumed bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, incense, and candied flowers, with a smoky mineral overtone and a hint of oak spice. Powerful dark fruit liqueur and cherry cola flavors coat the palate and show very good concentration. Closes broad, supple, and long, with velvety tannins coming in late to add shape and gentle grip to a lingering cherry note.

 

 

 

 

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