David Large Côte de Brouilly Heartbreaker (Natural Organic)
David Large is another new star in Beaujolais, a place where there are many, exciting new winemakers changing the perceptions of what Beaujolais can be. Barely 35, David Large has all the credentials one would hope for in a winemaker: a family history of winemaking stretching back to 1840, diplomas from the elite schools, and experience working with the greats. Nonetheless, he views becoming a great winemaker to be a process of “unlearning”.
His vineyards are located in pockets around Montmelas, a beautiful and mountainous area of the Southwest Beaujolais. The soil types of David's wines are predominantly granite, clay and the “Pierres Dorées”, a local and unique limestone formation pigmented with iron oxide. His wines also benefit from a volcanic rock base uniquely suited to Gamay vines.
He does everything himself, down to driving the delivery truck and composing the verses inscribed on the side of his wine labels - David is an enthusiastic rapper and poetry aficionado. Even the names of the individual wines are personal.
Like Pierre Cotton, David Large has his labels well sorted. You can’t beat a bit of nostalgia for the cassette tape! David’s vines on the Mont de Brouilly are on Piedmont soils. I was informed that these are in fact “diorite”, with which I’m more familiar. Diorite is a soil type apparently not “volcanic” but formed from volcanic activity.
Yields are very low and the wines undergo a semi-carbonic maceration in concrete tanks for 14 days, after which the must is pressed, and finishes fermentation in fiberglass vats. Sulfur is added, but just 2g/liter. The wine is focused and fresh with very nice fruit.
This Côte de Brouilly has real density in the mouth, with fine raspberry and cherry fruit flavors. While it is pretty, it also has structure: grainy and delicious.