ATALYAS DE GOLBAN RIBERA DEL DUERO

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ATALYAS DE GOLBAN RIBERA DEL DUERO (ORGANIC)

Atalayas de Golbán has young vineyards with 30 years of age as well as old vineyards that can reach up to 100 years of age, and the aim is to combine concentration and strength without sacrificing liveliness.  The intention of this wine is to express the virtues of the Tinto Fino variety, which are elegance, finesse, and a long aging period. The Tinto Fino is a classic clone of the Tempranillo variety grown in Ribera del Duero. This is a great red wine aged following the times of a Ribera del Duero. It is a delicious wine.

This is a great wine from Ribera del Duero, complete and ripe. Intense, elegant, and lively. Red and black cherry in color, with a fresh nose reminiscent of stone fruit. As it develops, balsamic tones with hints of licorice appear. In the mouth it is impressive and balanced, with a long and tasty step of mouth, appearing again the fruit already more mature. The wood brings seriousness and complexity. For the good harmony of its components, makes us foresee a perfect maturation in the coming years.

94 points, Wines and Spirits  The team at Dominio de Atauta developed this project based at a separate facility in town, working with fruit from local growers in Soria. Half of their crianza comes from these high-elevation sites, planted in sandy soils at altitudes up to 3,200 feet where the vines are 70 to 80 years old. The other half is from vineyards in Burgos, mostly La Horra and Roa, where 30-year-old vines grow in clay. Winemaker Jaime Suárez says the only difference between this wine and La Celestina Crianza (also recommended in the June issue) is that the better grape selection goes to La Celestina. And yet, this wine blew me away. A week later, in the company of the top wines of our Ribera del Duero tastings, it was still holding its own—not complex, like what turned out to be several Vega-Sicilia wines, but fresh and delicious. I can’t say I wasn’t bemused (confused… embarrassed…) to find out this is a $19 wine. Its time in French oak barrels (20 percent new) points up the luxurious texture, a silken richness to frame the layers of red and black-skinned fruit—the acidity of fresh currants and the warm sunshine of blackberries. It’s a savory tempranillo, all of a piece, and that integration sustains it…if you don’t immediately finish the bottle with a dinner of roast lamb. Astonishing.

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